Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Work work work

Just a work related update:
I'm exhausted, frustrated and none too cheery so I'll keep it short to spare you the pain. I was supposed to be on a flight leaving Manila right now. I should be taxiing across the runway right now. I should be settling into my standard flight routine. But clearly I am not.
Three managers over-ruled my flight so now I'm grounded (quite literally) in paradise.

Sigh...

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Whale Sharks

I'm back and no I wasn't mistaken for plankton and eaten! (A damn shame, I know)
Friday afternoon the four of us (a co-worker, two German friends, and I) took off for the long voyage south. Even though we stuck to the Great Southern Highway, it took us 10 hours to go 300 km. Common hazards included trikes, pedi-cabs, pedestrians, dogs, chickens, pigs and potholes the size of small US states. For those unfamiliar, a pedi-cab is a bicycle with attached side car, traveling down the highway at 10 kph with no tail or head lights at night and driven by someone dressed all in black. Also, our windshield was tinted dark. Suffice to say, it was an adventure just getting there alive.


We arrived at the first stop: a wakeboard cable park. $4 for equipment rental, lesson, and one hour on the water: you can't say no to that. I decided to stick to kneeboarding because I didn't want to know what it feels like to go from 0 to 30 kph and back again in the span of half a second. I also did not want to know what my arms would feel like the next day. The down side is that kneeboarding doesn't nearly look as cool as wakeboarding so all the pictures of me have been conveniently "lost".
Next came a 4 hour drive to the whale shark capitol of the world. Amazingly enough, 15 years ago no one knew that whale sharks lived in the Philippines except for the villagers who occasionally hunted them (named Buntanding in the local dialect). Even more amazing, the locals agreed to stop hunting them as long as the tourists supplied income. From fishermen to tourist guides in less than a generation!
To see the whale sharks all you have to do is get on a boat, float a 100 yards or so from shore and wait for a giant shadow to cruise past. Then hurriedly throw on your snorkeling equipment, dive into the water, swim a wind sprint to the shadow, then kick like mad just to keep up with the beast. The last is the most difficult, not because it is tiring or even possible, but because the first sight of the shark completely shuts down your mind: snorkelers literally stop mid-stroke to gape as the shark sails past. Then they pull their head out and sputter something about "fish", "large", and "fast" interspersed with gleeful gibberish. And so the day ended, no one eaten or even slightly gummed (as I imagine whale sharks and senile great whites would behave), and everyone reminiscing with great flourish about the race to the dorsal fin but never quite getting there. Needless to say, I will be going back and this time the weather will be better, the water clearer, and the stories fishy-er.


From the whale sharks we headed East to go island hopping. We actually never made it to the isles because our short cut became the long cut which then became the impassible goat trail of doom. (Later it became worse.) At one point we got stuck in a stream, mud, pebbles, and grass: one tire in each and at the same time (we are an equal opportunity road destruction team). Now we were stuck in the sticks with the immediate population density comparable to Jupiter. A passing motorcyclist (the second such sighting of the day) offered to get a few people to help. So a village turned up to help us out; and it took a village. I bit back the urge to yell:
Push! You scurvy infested bastards, put your back into it! Heave! My grandmother can lift this car , you rum-swilling bettle nut-chewing ingrates!

What can I say, the mood was right. Instead I cheered when the car broke free and learned what an offroad car with no mud flaps can do to the idiot behind. I was "peppered pretty good". Eventually we had to turn around when the third motorcyclist of the day caught up and warned us what we were getting into.
One last stop at the most luxurious spas in the world: deep in virgin jungle, natural hot springs, and magic in the air.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

1st, 2nd, and Last vacation

Today marks the 6 month anniversary of my stay in the Philippines. I hear from the old gray beards that if I stay just one more month I will hold the company record for the longest stint. I'm glad to say that the record will hold and I'll happily take second place.
I extended my stay here until the 27th so that I can go on one last vacation. But before I get into that, I have an update on the vacation last weekend. (Life is tough here.)
A co-worker and I headed to Bohol for a 3 day weekend. (President's Day counts even in the wrong country right?)
The first day we wandered around the island a bit. Remember my trip to Thailand and the midnight ride on the back of a scooter? Well, it turns out it is way more fun (read: dangerous) in the Philippines where there are renting one costs $5 and there are no laws, driver licenses, or helmets. We turned a few heads as the area is mostly undiscovered but that may have been because of the one way street signs we missed.

The second day was entirely devoted to scuba diving. Balicasag Island was the drop point. I'm told by a trusted source the reef there is better than the Great Barrier Reef. Dive one was devoted to zoology: turtles, mackrel, groupers, and barracuda. For the most part barracuda don't bother me, even with their tendency to follow divers. But an entire school some 100-150 individuals strong (small by Balicasag standards) is a different matter. The school formed a wall 20 feet tall, 30 feet long and about 10 feet away. Because we were between the school and the rock wall, I couldn't back up to see the entire school at once. One albino barracuda kept our attention while the rest of the school closed in from above. With heart rate and air consumption skyrocketing, I gave a signal to move on. The second dive was more peaceful as we toured the coral garden which I can say is unmatched in all my experience.

The last day of the trip we went exploring deeper into the island, this time with a car (we got tired of the rain, wind, and onlookers that a scooter ride typically includes). We visited a blacksmith hand-making kitchen knives from rusty Jeepney springs and a newly replaced and upgraded bamboo bridge (now with 1% more steel support!)

From there we ventured into the interior to see the Chocolate Hills and the Tarsiers. The chocolate hills were amazing yet the pictures can't quite describe them.

Just imagine that with a full 360 degree panorama, hundreds in number, dappled sunlight, and alien in their near-perfect shapes. The Tarsiers of the region are the worlds smallest monkey are are nigh impossible to find. Thankfully they are nocturnal so they don't move about too much, allowing from decent photography. All this one is missing is a light saber.

Next weekend is devoted to whale shark chasing! Wish me luck!

Friday, February 15, 2008

First real vacation

Wow! It's been a month since the last update... sorry about that folks. Too much work and not enough play. To remedy the situation I'm flying to Bohol this morning for some dives, hikes, etc.

In the mean time, I'm proud to present "Confusing Conversations with a Salesman Part II"

Saleswoman: Sir, Fresh Pearls!
Me: (just looking)
Saleswoman: Highest quality. For you, first buyer, 1000 Pesos.
Me: How many first buyers have you had today?It's almost three.
Saleswoman: You're the first! For your wife? (gestures to my co-worker)
Me: Her? (Looking at co-worker) If I bought pearls for her, my wife would be very upset.